Healthcare Reform

Since arriving in Mexico in mid-February, neither Steven nor I had experienced any sort of food-related sickness – and trust me when I say we have eaten more than our fair share of street tacos. Steven’s digestive system actually seems to function better down here, something he’s referred to more than once as Montezuma’s benevolence.

All that changed last week. On the last day of a four day trip to Ciudad Mexico with my sister and her man, I woke up with such painful stomach cramps I couldn’t get out of bed. When I did, it was to have a really bad time in the bathroom of our AirBnb, which was too posh to have walls that go all the way to the ceiling, making it an experience I was able to share with everyone.

What followed was five days of more cramps, nausea and really awful but more-private bathroom experiences. Sometimes I’d feel ok and have a beer and tacos with Steven and then a few hours later they’d come shooting out of me in a partially digested liquid form with a force I didn’t even know I was capable of. This is the PG version.

I’ve known a lot people with digestive issues who hardly complain or even talk about it at all, the majority of whom seem to be productive members of society. I’m telling you, these people deserve gold medals every time they get out of bed.  When you don’t eat you feel tired, grumpy, sleepy, lazy, weird, lonely. When you do eat, you are dead. It’s sort of like our 2016 presidential candidate options. Also similar to the 2016 campaign process, any helpful information you find online has an evil twin saying exactly the opposite (Article A: eat yogurt. Article B: absolutely do not eat yogurt.). The internet was in agreement on a few things: I was not supposed to eat meat, dairy, fats, fiber and definitely not gluten, probably ever again. Which means that on the island, my options were bananas and water. One time I asked the alpha female who runs the island taqueria what type of tacos they had, and she said “carne.” And then I asked her what kind of carne and she said “carne.” I don’t really care to find out what her response would be to a question about gluten-free offerings.

When it comes to hypochondria, I’m definitely on the spectrum, which sometimes works against me when deciding with Steven whether or not I should go to the doctor. It’s not that he discourages it, it’s just that he tries to offer reasonable evidence that cancer is not the only logical conclusion. But on day six, I was so tired of feeling exactly like what was coming out of me and he was so tired of hearing it/about it that we both decided it was time to go.

We couldn’t find the office for the doctor that was recommended to us, but right across the street from where it was supposed to be was a pharmacy advertising medical consultations on a poster board in the window (one thing I love about Maz is that it’s super entrepreneur friendly. If you have an idea and some neon poster board, you’re a business). So we went inside. The clerks told us to go next door. So we went into another inside. And there was an empty waiting area and one closed door at the back of the room. No one was there to greet us or take a name or anything, so we just went ahead and knocked. A man in loafers without socks and a lab jacket the color of smokers teeth opened the door.

“Pasale.”

We sat in the two folding chairs across from him at his desk, and to the best of my abilities, I described how my stomach had seceded from the union to form its own state under martial law. He looked at me like I was the most boring thing he’d ever seen and asked me to lay down on something that looked sort of like an exam table while he held a stethoscope to my stomach and pressed down on a few places. He then told me to get up and started writing something on a prescription slip.

“Que piensas, doctor?” Steven said.

“Infección bacteriana. Muy común.”

He asked me if I wanted injections or pills. I said whatever was fastest (I did not have full mental clarity at the time). Within 5 minutes I was back in the room with needles and drugs I’d purchased next door. I sat upright on the exam table. He told me to lay down on my stomach. I thought that was odd but assumed it was a precautionary measure in case I passed out. I held out my arm and closed my eyes. And then I was getting a shot in my bare butt in a dingy office from a man who could have been a doctor or nurse or just another guy with a really attractive poster board. I’m not sure in that moment if it would have made a difference to me.

He sent us home with three more injections to take over the next three days. We told him we weren’t sure how to administer them and he seemed to think we’d figure it out, which we did (thanks, Andrea!). The entire visit, meds included, cost us about $27 USD.

Within a few hours, my stomach had traded its weaponry for an insatiable appetite and I was back to normal. We celebrated with street food.

So in summary: I went to see a doctor (I think) with no appointment and no wait. I paid an upfront fee that was posted on the wall. I got treatment from the same building on the same day. No one had to take a bunch of tests just to make sure no one else was getting sued. No one spent hours on the phone with an insurance company trying to understand what a deductible actually is. No one was forced to wear socks in 90 degree weather.

I’m going to miss it here.

(Please do not mistake this as an actual health care reform proposal. I admittedly have no idea how we are going to fix the mess the U.S. health care system is in, nor am I convinced we’ll find the solution in Mexico. All I am qualified to say is that in this particular example, I’d take their set up over ours any day.)

 

No Man Is An Isla

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View from the new patio

It’s been longer since I’ve written than I’d like, so I am just going for it, max coherent speed, Kerouacian first-thought-best-thought, the On the Road scroll in one sitting, so they say, or he said, someone said it up the pipeline and doomed a couple of generations of people like me who latch onto such myths and for decades deem anything in need of editing not worth editing. It’s not true. The Constitution was edited. War and Peace was edited (though neither for length nor for Natasha Rostova), along with the Psalms and the Gospels assuming that at times Jesus must have sneezed or said “um” or “where was I?” while preaching. But this is none of those things (you can say that again, “this is none of those things,” ok) and so I’m letting loose a little. Probably i’s of thought and t’s of reason will go undotted and uncrossed. 

We’ve been in Mexico for 105 days. That’s a meaty slice of time any way you cut it. I brought a lot of books with me, books that I thought would feed my soul/mind in some very specific ways, providing the fodder for the kind of rumination I’d set out to do. I’ve read a few of them (Perelandra (reread), The Big Short, Scandal of the Evangelical Mind, Adam’s Return, and currently re-reading Founding Brothers along with The Givenness of Things), all of which I would highly recommend. But about a month in, the other work we were doing of studying Spanish took over most of the available bandwidth. (I’ll do a post soon about how we’ve been going about our language learning in hopes that it’s helpful for someone with similar goals.) It’s just hard to find something else that has the same return, each word and tense and phrase translating into another opportunity to soak in our experience here.

We have about 4 weeks left on La Isla de la Piedra, and with that comes a time horizon that I can get my head around, contrasted with the months stretched out before us when we first arrived, one that is now at work in my marrow as one of those oh-so-helpful constraints that seem essential for any human endeavor. There is a type of clock which has, in lieu of a third skinniest hand, a minute hand that moves almost imperceptibly to chart the seconds. I can hardly stand these clocks. And yet, the dread induced by such a genius mechanism is one with which we all must reckon. For our last month we’ve rented a place on the beach, reasoning that it is likely our one and only opportunity to do so in life. It’s beautiful, tranquil, and the crashing of the waves never stops, pounding away still in the dark of night, unconcerned with the presence or lack of any human in sight. It’s enough to cause one to wax philosophic, can you tell? Our first day here I went for a swim in this new section of beach and learned that this current does not behave like the one I’m used to. In what seemed like a blink, I was out to sea and unable to make it back. I will skip all of the dramatic details and just say that I did make it back, shaken*. Neither nature nor time, gifts that they are, care about us, and both will go on when, not if, we are all dead, but we’ve been placed within it by a creator that I believe very much cares for us. And the only thing on this earth that can give care to a human, as best we can perceive, is another human.

*Far more terrifying was the time I took Eli for a little ocean dip. But I can hardly think about that let alone write down what happened. His parents are the most gracious people on the planet.

One of my favorite poems:

No man is an island,
Entire of itself.
Each is a piece of the continent,
A part of the main.
If a clod be washed away by the sea,
Europe is the less.
As well as if a promontory were.
As well as if a manor of thine own
Or of thine friend’s were.
Each man’s death diminishes me,
For I am involved in mankind.
Therefore, send not to know
For whom the bell tolls,
It tolls for thee.

John Donne 1624

 

Okay, so nature and time and mortality, what else. A few things I’ve learned:

-Frida Kahlo is worth knowing about. Her work has been commercialized and she’s often reduced to her unibrow, but the woman was an incredible artist, never experiencing but a fraction of her posthumous fame. The movie Frida is a good place to start.

-Narcocorridos are songs commissioned by narcos to literally sing their praises. They’ve been banned on public radio in Mexico for promoting the narco lifestyle and because they are vulgar, to put it mildly. If you’ve seen Breaking Bad, you’ve seen this amazing example/riff on one. Not so different from that gangster rap the kids are listening to in the US

-No-see-ums are called jejenes in Spanish and they suck just as bad, being parasites and all, and it’s just as hard to see um in Mexico

-The average Aztec citizen lived to 37. That means that mostly 20 and 30 year olds created everything their empire is known for. 

-You can make water potable using bleach – the right amount of course.

-Tequila comes only from the blue agave plant. Agave liquors like Mescal and Pulque are from other types of agave. 

-The Iran-Contra Affair. Always heard it referenced, only now know the details and why it was and is such a big deal. Fascinating, still-relevant story worth researching.

-New words that come into the Spanish lexicon, like “tuitear” meaning “to tweet,” spawn every standard conjugation that those of us learning it struggle with: tuiteo, tuiteaste, tuiteábamos….

More to come in our final weeks. Thanks for reading.

Popcorn

I’ve had a hard time mustering inspiration to write for a couple reasons: 1. We’ve found a rhythm and routine here that suits us, and as life becomes more familiar it simultaneously feels less blog-topicy and 2. Steven’s last post, let’s be honest, was really fabulous, and who wants to follow that up? “Not I” said the fly on my computer as I type this, outside of our teeny-tiny casita on a sweaty Saturday. But if you can’t write about the familiar than you’ll never write about anything you actually know, right? “Right!” said our house gecko, peeking out from behind the lace floral curtain that hangs above our easy-bake-oven sized propane range. (Don’t worry mom, most of the time we remember to turn it off.)

Anyways, this post is an attempt to rip that writer’s avoidance band aid. I’ll keep it short and spicy, with a high and a low and a short story about popcorn.

A HIGH (Or four. Oops): LIFE HERE. While texting Steven’s sadly flu-ridden parents last week, I had this revelation: This is the best I’ve been for the greatest amount of time in my memory. Steven and I are absolutely loving it down here, even more so as the words start to come ever-so-slightly more readily.

A few weeks ago we visited Guadalajara. Alejandro’s sweet parents generously put us up, and we were able to spend five days exploring the art, architecture, markets, food, etc. of Mexico’s second largest city. The highlight of this highlight was a private tour to Tequila (and by private, I mean we couldn’t find a formal tour on the day we wanted to go, so we hired a guy online who takes people up there himself, like in his actual car. It was perfect.) He walked us through the entire process, from planting the blue agave to distillation and distribution, taking us through several distillers, museums and of course, tasting flights. We were so happy, for so many reasons.

When we’re not on vacation from our vacation, we’re spending a lot of time in our Spanish grammar books, teaching mini English classes to a few of the neighbors, having intercambia conversations with people all over the Spanish-speaking world via italki, and continuing our taco stand tour, which has now been expanded to include chorreadas (sort of like a taco, but on a flat, thicker tortilla with cheese). We regularly attend a tiny baptist church on the island, where we sit in children’s chairs (the space doubles as a kindergarten classroom) and sing worship songs played from a boom box. We love it.

A LOW: The other night we went out to dinner with our neighbor, and Steven and I both followed her lead and ordered the shrimp. As a Coloradan, I had a picture in my mind of a nice Chilis’ shrimp fajita platter, sizzling and ready to eat, everything but the blooming onion. What we were served, however, was a plate of probably the freshest shrimp I’ve ever eaten, which were a total waste on me as I could not get over their beady little eyes or the sound as I broke their necks (do shrimp have necks?) or the blood juice that soaked my rice as I ripped their heads off with my bare hands. A toxic mix of stubbornness and politeness got me through the plate, but I still hear that crack at night when I’m trying to sleep.

THE HIGH OF THE LOW: If decapitating shrimp is your low, you’re doing fine, and maybe even living a more cultured person’s seafood dream.

A STORY: Since we landed in Mexico about a month and a half ago, I can count the number of times I’ve felt unsafe on one hand, and three of those were while watching Narcos. This very well may be because I am naïve and have no idea how close I’ve come to being napped/mugged/food poisoned/recruited into the drug trade, or because I’m living in a city where a large part of the economy depends on visitors with deep pockets and headlines about missing white girls are bad for everybody’s business.

Regardless of why, outside of TV shows and accidentally getting on major highways with zero shoulder on a Mongoose Mountain Bike that saw better days in the 80s while wearing a dress, I’ve felt very comfortable here. Except this one time.

A few weeks ago, while waiting for Steven outside an OXXO, about a half dozen cops walked out of the gas station, in their usual black jumpsuits, face masks, and assault rifles – a get up that to the untrained American eye, make them look more like they are about to attempt a risky diamond heist or perform some sort of SWAT operation than buy a coke.

I’ve been told to be wary of the police down here, and seeing how I was a gringa standing alone at night on the side of a gas station with an armful of beer wearing, once again, a dress, I felt a bit vulnerable.

One of the cops approached me, and as I cursed T-Mobile for selling us a phone plan that works roughly 2 percent of the time, he reached into his plastic bag, and extended a handful of the most delicious smelling freshly gas-station microwaved buttery popcorn.  

And so the two of us stood there on the curb together in silence, a small white woman with a couple of crappy bikes and a thoroughly armed middle-aged Mexican police officer, eating popcorn and waiting for Steven.

Lost in the Light

I have to tell this story, because — and I know it is overused I find it incredible.

We are living in a community just south of Mazatlan called La Isla de la Piedra, or, Stone Island. It is actually a peninsula, but water is the dominate feature and you must cross some to get from La Isla to Mazatlan and back again. Multiple times a week, Maggie and I will make this crossing in the motorboat water taxi (a lancha or panga, they call it). It’s a quick, usually fun trip, complicated only by the fact that we bring our bikes onboard so we can ride to our next destination on the mainland. Practice has made far from perfect, this awkward dance, a tangle of pedals and spokes and almost taking out old women and children with knobby tires to the face. Most of the passengers are usually traveling light* and I am always aware of being the gringo with all the things and in the way. I paint this picture so you can properly visualize our embarking and disembarking, the heaving and leaning, the balancing act on the rocking boat.

*except when they are not. I’ve seen towers of cotton candy to be sold on the beach make the crossing, and just yesterday saw a full size 4-wheeler balanced half on/half off of one of these lanchas, cruising across the bay.

Around 8:30pm two weeks ago, Maggie and I finally made it back home after a semi-rocky shopping trip at the market wherein one of the members of our party became hungry, then sad, and then lost hope. We had everything we needed to make a steak taco dinner with all of the trimmings, thus, saving the night. As we began to prepare our meal, Maggie realized that she did not have her phone. Every corner was searched, every cushion overturned, every pants pocket in the vicinity turned out, and no phone. This is not the first time said phone has made itself scarce. You see, phones now are beyond smart, they have personalities, and Maggie’s phone is an attention-seeking, drunken debutante, with a touch of Munchausen syndrome. Without warning and indiscriminately, it dashes itself against the ground, carpeted and asphalted surfaces alike. It’s constantly hiding, usually just in plain sight, but other times it will lie flat, say, on top of the refrigerator, and we’ll call and call and it won’t make a sound. Sometimes it runs away from home, like when it flew to Columbus, Ohio without us. The worst, though, is when it fakes its own kidnapping.

When it was confirmed that the phone was in no way in our possession, we snapped into action, flipping open our laptops and activating the lost-phone-GPS-thing. Huddled around the table in our consumer-grade, Apple-branded war room, we watched the app ping out into the darkness, like the unanswered, bioluminescent mating call of the American firefly. And then…Pong! Or whatever the answer to a ping is. There was Maggie’s phone, according to the map, one mile from our house on the island. I saddled up the mountain bike and headed toward the pin.

Through the island streets, alternately paved, then pure sand, then drop offs, then compacted horse manure, I rode with one hand as the other held my phone out in front, my navigator, my R2. My iPhone tracked Maggie’s iPhone into the night, one hound on the trail of another, and I remembered Where the Red Fern Grows, and how it ended. After passing a local championship soccer (I know they call it fútbol, just let me tell this) game, I turned down two more dark alleys and finally emerged on a slightly less dark corner of a neighborhood. A man and an old woman graciously listened to my broken speech about what I was doing in front of their house, and patiently sat through my pointing-at-screen presentation, before I opened up the floor to questions. Another neighbor joined, and we all huddled around my phone, staring at the increasingly dubious triangulation. The icon depicting Maggie’s phone on the map (itself a tiny black iPhone. iPhones all the way down…) jumped around whenever we tried to zoom in further. I realized that it could not give us a precise location, rather, something like a 20 yard radius. Since I had checked the majority of this radius, the neighborhood consensus was that the phone was probably next door, and that person was at the soccer game, but I could come back tomorrow. They seemed not to be pulling one over on the gringo, and so I thanked them and returned home only semi-defeated.

When I got home, we reheated our tacos and beans and presented arguments in the case of the missing phone. My position was that the phone had thrown itself out of Maggie’s backpack during the recent aforementioned awkward disembarking. The opposing theory was that during that same passage across the bay, the phone had been stolen, presumably by the youths sitting directly behind us with access to the phone in the open backpack pocket. At this point the understanding husband inside of me went to bed without a goodnight, and I should have followed.

At roughly 11pm, Find My Phone got a new pong. The map showed the phone again about a mile away, but this time across the bay back in Mazatlan. We floated 3 or 4 competing theories to explain this new location, but, alas, we were weary. The phone looked like it was on a street we’d biked down before crossing over, so I was hoping it had simply dropped itself out of Maggie’s backpack where it now lay still. The plan was to wake up early and retrieve it in the twilight hours before it could get snatched up.

My alarm went off before sunrise and I checked the app again. Find My Phone was not communicating with Maggie’s iPhone in real time, rather, it was going off of the last update it had received when the phone had signal, sometime around midnight. It was a total impossibility that the phone was where the map said it was, but I started getting ready to head back into town anyway. Maggie and I decided to take a wee-hours ocean swim to wake ourselves up. I made one of those apologies in which each sentence of apology is matched with a sentence of rationalization, what some would call a non-apology. Nevertheless, we swam and made breakfast. After my coffee, I biked to the dock to head back into Mazatlan.

Shortly after getting off the boat, I realized that the spot showing the phone on the map was not, in fact, in the street we had biked down. It was a block away, in the one place we had been advised not to venture into, day or night. A place called, of all things, Ciudad Perdida, The Lost City. This “city” is actually an obtuse trapezoidal section of roughly 4 or 5 city blocks. From what I have been told of it, it’s called “Lost” for every reason you would imagine, including that it is very easy to literally lose your sense of direction there as the streets are not on any grid and many are dead ends.

When I realized that the lost phone was in the Lost City, I weighed my options. It was now about 8am, and there was no chance the phone was in the same location as the update 8 hours earlier. This would be incredibly foolish, risking getting into trouble over nothing. But, I calculated* the risks involved, and made a game plan: I would go and somehow try to find the phone, and if, upon arriving there, I thought I might die, I would leave**. I biked to roughly the right block, dismounted and started following the GPS. There was no point in trying to blend in or act natural, so I was just going to be quick. I turned down a small alley from the main avenue off of the dock, and I was in the Lost City. As soon as I turned onto an actual street, a kid who looked to be about 13 came out and stood on the corner behind me. He glanced left and then right — the lookout. I kept walking, trying to figure out the rough epicenter of the elusive phone icon even though I knew it was irrational. I found a shop that was open and showed the phone to the man behind the counter, communicating in perfect Spanish, “Lost phone wife shows here, you know phone? This is a building, a, a place? You know this, is this here?” During our discussion, the kid from the corner came in to browse the chip aisle. Finally the man looked at me and said, “What do you want.” It was in Spanish, but otherwise like that, with a period, not a question mark. I said sorry and thank you and moved on.

*by “calculated,” I mean “thought about”
**if I could leave

My next strategy was to interrupt a family having breakfast in their poorly lit kitchen. You see, the door was open, and morning is as good a time as any to be interrogated by a stranger. Through many apologies, I pointed at my phone, cleared my throat, and explained again in Spanish, “I looking for phone. This map show phone here, or, here there. You know this? No accusation! Lost. I’m sorry.” The kid from the corner and from the chip aisle had also been listening to this, but had run off a minute before, either to get away from this train wreck or to tell his associates that he had just found a new business opportunity for them. It was time for me to go.

Before I could get out my last string of apologies and make myself scarce, the kid came back, and he wasn’t alone.

He had that prima donna of a cell phone with him, and he held it out to me. I was thunderstruck. In the Lost City, in a state in Mexico with a travel advisory from the US State Department, a kid handed me a cell phone that I never expected to see again. I tried to thank him, to tell him how grateful I was that he stepped forward. “Of this, sir you great, honest man.”

I’m not any more prejudiced than the next person, which is to say, I’m as prejudiced as the next person. I did not expect to find the phone or anything else in the Lost City. Least of all did I expect to find a young man with the courage and honesty to hand over something that could have paid his family’s rent for a few months. I hope I don’t have to keep relearning this lesson, to be savvy but assume nothing, that “lost” rarely means what I think it means, especially when people are involved, and it’s never the final word.

Que Caro Estoy Pagando

I’ve had this fear for the last few weeks that I’m going to return to Colorado, and the first time I meet up with one of my Spanish-speaking friends, they’ll start a conversation in Spanish and I’ll have to say “Me repites, por favor?” And then they’ll start over, speaking slower and using smaller words, and I still won’t really understand, but I’ll guess what they’re asking and respond in Spanish and when I do, it will be completely, terribly wrong, and they’ll smile and switch to English while thinking “WTF has Maggie been doing for the last four months?” And I’ll be wondering the exact same thing.

Because here is the thing. If I were getting on a plane tomorrow, that would definitely happen. I’m at the place right now where it feels like progress has slowed to a crawl, like I’m wading through a swamp of conjugated verbs and tenses and as soon as I get a step forward I realize I’ve dropped a few nouns in the effort and have to retrace my steps as they’re being filled in by inconsistent colloquialisms and my chronic misuse of the word that means, of all things, to be. And then I try to curse but can’t even do that right. Is it punt@ or pin$#@!??! P’ing Spanish!

But here is the other, better thing. I’m learning to love Spanish. Specifically Mexican Spanish. It’s as sweet as a cold glass bottle of Coka on the beach. It’s as fluid as the tienda shop hours. It’s as surprising as Tecate in a giant styrofoam cup rimmed with chili salt on a summer evening on the Malecon. It’s the dirty, windy calle where there are no addresses or stop signs or minimum driving age requirements (definitely not that!) and no one’s going to stop you or ask how fast you’re going. No matter which route you take you’ll end up at the beach, you just have to decide how you’re gonna get there and whether or not you want to stop for a coconut at Pancho’s first. And all this from someone who understands nothing and speaks even less! What a language. What a world.

And here’s the best thing. Each new word, phrase, tense (this only happens on the absolute best days) that sticks is like discovering this short cut that leads to somebody else. Somebody that maybe, one day, you could start to know outside of gestures (though there is a whole lot more about a person communicated with these than I’ve previously given credit to) and textbook phrases. Someone that beforehand was just this category of person, a character in the next episode of Disney’s Violetta, that begins to fill in with personality and complexity and really just human beingness. This is the gift that Spanish is giving me everyday that I don’t give up and decide to sit alone at the beach with my English-speaking husband and Stephen King novel (it’s happened).

And that’s the crazy thing. That words, leaky vessels though they are (thank my girl Marilyn McIntyre for that one), seem to be the best keys I’m offered to to know and to be known – my deepest desire, the ultimate gift already given by the first and final Word.

 

30 Lessons from 30 Years (#14 will leave you speechless.)

I just turned 30 years old, as in, I stepped into the 4th decade of my life. That’s how someone put it to me. After counting in my head, I thought, “Damn, that is true.” So, with pre-furrowed brow, I was looking for an angle, a framework around which to build, I don’t know, a reflection, a commemoration, something about how I’m 30 now.

The title of this post is a meta (I’ll admit I think it will bait more people to click) parody of clickbait blog posts about really big picture life lessons.* To be fair, I do understand the impulse to regurgitate as one’s own the general wisdoms taken up over a lifetime. If someone had a gun to my head and said, “WRITE A LIST LIKE THAT NOW,” I could make one of those lists, and it would probably be good – but it wouldn’t be MY list. I didn’t come up with, “Live each day like it could be your last (esp if a crazy list guy has a gun to your head)” or its cousin, “Make sure the people in your life that you love know you love them,” even though my experiences have confirmed the truth of those. They’re timeless, and because of that, always in danger of becoming stale, trite, shrugged off. But there are times when they REALLY pop for us. Our lives confirm what we’ve heard all along. You know that experience? You hear something as if for the first time and think, “Yeaaahh, that is GOOD, a stitch in time DOES save nine!”

*I think it’s very different when we actually share our stories, or when we reflect on our own lives in the quest toward deeper self knowledge, as in a piece like this (shameless, biased plug).

So now that I’ve beat that horse of a qualifying preface into a pulp, I wanted to share something that has been very present with me as I turn this corner. If you haven’t heard this metaphor in this exact form, I would still wager that you’ve heard it another way at some point. It goes like this.

 

We have, inside of us, a dog fight. The one that we feed is the one that is going to win.

 

I first heard this when I was 14 or 15,* and at the time it had a few very specific applications, and they were all some variation of DO NOT look at, touch, or think about girls as anything other than your holy blessed virgin sisters in Christ.

*I was very religiously active in high school, promiscuous even, and so I don’t know if I heard this in a church sermon, Sunday morning youth group, Wednesday night youth group, Bible study (or the other Bible study, or the other Bible study), my Freshmen Bible class, a chapel service, or at a church retreat (or a school retreat).

However, at 30, I can hardly find where it does not apply. I can also now say, those dogs, whatever they’re made of for you, for me, neither of them are ever totally down for the count. For reasons God only knows, it seems the one that we don’t want to win is an expert scavenger and will gain ground when our backs are turned. That other one, it always has another round in it too, though. I believe all will be redeemed. But again, for reasons God only knows, we’re the ones down in the pit for as long as we live, with these hungry dogs, making choices every day.

So to and from myself, my 4th decading self, I will both give and take one lesson:

FEED THE RIGHT DOG

 

 

 

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After the best dinner of my life.

 

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So close.

Tortillas and The Things We Put In Them

This week I was hard up wondering what to write about, so I asked Steven for a prompt. He came up with “What are we eating?” and I was like, DUH, so here it is: What we’re eating and how we get it. (Note: I got a little carried away with the details in this one, so if this topic doesn’t interest you as much as it interests me, feel encouraged to skip straight to the TLDR.)

If you are making the dollar and spending the peso, food in Mazatlan and on the island is incredibly cheap. The few large grocery stores are precarious to get to by bike (we’re still learning how to navigate the alternative use of stop signs, and improving our traffic light recognition at major intersections – Steven has cruised through two red lights without even knowing it), and a little expensive by taxi, so we’ve only been twice. Luckily, we’ve found that we really don’t need them. There are a plethora of small tiendas and food vendors, including Israel, the man I mentioned in my last post that comes around every morning. The trick is catching him.

Most of the daily door-to-door vendors have a different horn/mega phone/greeting they use to get you out of your home and into their moving store, starting around 7 a.m. with the water guys. They will remind you of your daily water needs nearly every hour on the hour all day long. WATER I TELL YOU WATER WE HAVE WATER COME GET WATER NOW BEEP BEEP BEEP BEEP. Thirsty? I thought so.

It gets a little tricky when the water guys get paid to do advertising for other vendors. So you’ll be listening for the water trucks but hear an advertisement for a taxi/restaurant/tortillaria. You learn to tune your ears for the type of speaker they use – I find myself having a pavlovian response to salon advertisements done in the right pitch.

The tamale guy doesn’t need any fancy speakers or megaphone to get the word out. Everyday around 10 a.m. you hear him shouting “tam-ales!” with the exact same intonation as he passes his cart by the front door. They’re pretty good, too, but best eaten right away as we have no microwave and heating these things via stove top is asking for it.

Tortilla man is large, practically spilling out of his tiny blue car. He says “tortillas de harina” into his megaphone with so little emotion or care, it’s clear he has confidence the product will sell itself.  And they do. When you flag him down, he handles the entire transaction without hardly moving and you don’t even care that he is so bored by you and your terrible Spanish because you are endlessly grateful because these tortillas, I’m telling you. Hot damn.

And then, Steven’s favorite, the empanadas. We met Hector at the Tecate/sparkling water/Coke tienda nearest our house (the shops on the island don’t seem to have names so you just get to know them by what they sell). He was loading up on a 40 while waiting on his latest batch of empanadas to come out of the oven, and was excited for an opportunity to speak English with the gringos (he lived in Miami for a few years) and also a little beer friendly, which is how we found out that Hector and his wife walk the playa daily with tupperware containers full of the hand pies, while they’re still warm and fragrant. Steven and I like the ham/cheese/jalepeño and the blackberry cream cheese. The apple one would be my favorite but they are a little too liberal with their raisins – apparently this is a problem without borders.

The first few days we were alone here, it felt like a lot to handle – making sure you are at home at the right time when the right person drives by with the right things you need and the right words to ask for them. It’s a little stressful when you’re of the meal-planning sort, a habit Mexico is doing it’s best to shake me of. I will not go down easy.

Praise God, we discovered the market – a giant collection of various vendors selling fruits, veggies, cheeses, meats, spices, dry goods, etc. Most of it is produced locally and not even because it’s cool. Shopping there is a grocery/Spanish-practice goldmine, and I’ve come to love our trips to the market, especially once I learned how to distract myself from the pig heads (see photo).

Most of what we make with our spoils fall into two categories: tacos, and things we wish had been tacos.

You think I’m joking, but seriously, our taco game is through the roof right now. Most mornings we eat fried eggs and avocado wrapped in tortillas. Lunches have varied depending on where we are and what we’re doing, but if we’re studying at the house they’re usually tuna something (Mazatlan has a huge tuna industry) and more avocado. But then the night comes and all we can think about are tacos. We’ve got a list of taco stands in the city to try but are stuck on one called Playa Sur. It’s so cheap, so good, pretty efficient (not to be taken for granted) and while there are several options on the menu they are all varying versions of the same thing (carne asada tacos with all the fixings on the side) and everyone is so happy. Bonus, neither of us have gotten sick yet. Even if we did, I’m not convinced it would stop us.

Before he left for Switzerland, Ale taught us how to make refried beans and Mexican fried rice (little did he know, changing our lives for the foreseeable future) which have accompanied the tacos we cook in house – random variations of the veggies, meats and cheeses we found that day. Once a week we’ve been making Ale’s chipotle chicken recipe, a slightly more involved meal but edible proof that there is a God and he loves us (I think I understand soul food now). Cooking with Steven has become one of my favorite nightly rituals – a sweet time to debrief what we’re learning and how we’re feeling and how many new bug bites we have.

TLDR: Every night is taco night in Shaferland right now and there is nothing wrong with that.

La Bamba

We’re nearly two weeks into our time down here, and if I ran into any American acquaintances – you know, the people you’ve met once or twice and might ignore in a local grocery store but if you saw them in Mexico you’d probably scream and hug and for sure see what’s up – and they asked, “How’s Mexico?” The formal and honest response would be “It’s wonderful.”

But if I could sit down with a friend for coffee right now (and maybe if all this VR stuff really takes off that’s not so far-fetched) and she asked, “But how is Mexico?” I would say something more like this:

Mexico is wonderful. It’s a place where a man named Israel drives around a truck full of tomatoes and onions and limes and chilies and giant avocados grown within walking distance and knows all of his customers by name. It’s where the tortilla man comes at 5 p.m. on Thursdays with these other-worldly things I hate calling tortillas because to compare them to the the sad interpretations we buy at King Soopers back home is an embarrassment.

It’s a place where a Mexican band opens with Sweet Home Alabama on a Wednesday on the Malecon and continues to play classic American rock hits to the all-Mexicano crowd (with the exception of Steven and I) until a 10-year-old with a tiny guitar asks for a turn with the mic. When he launches into La Bomba, now supported by the full rock band, the older couple across from us take a break from eating limes and salt to dance. You know, Wednesday.

It’s where the driver of the ferry [read: small motor boat] you take to the city extends his rough and weathered hand to help you out of the boat without thinking about gender roles. It’s a place where a short stout woman comes to your door with an oddly shaped squash and when you can’t quite understand her cooking instructions she lets herself in and proceeds to demo the process for you with exasperated gestures. It’s where you never go to the beach because wherever you are you are at the beach. It’s where reggae versions of Adele songs are blasted across the island from one woman’s porch all day long because it’s a day so why not.

And then that friend might ask, “But how are you in Mexico?” And, if I was being straight with them, I’d add this:

Learning and communicating in a new language is really challenging, and some days I feel like I’ve lost myself – like I’m not totally sure who I am when the words I’d use to express that aren’t clear, or when they are, come slowly and clunkily. And in those times I question my ability to do much of anything, and wonder what in the world I am doing here. Further exacerbating this feeling is finding the transition from “The truck is red,” and “We go to beach,” to being a worthy conversationalist with my husband exceedingly difficult. Which is important to work on, as right now we make up the majority of each other’s community. I’m hoping my brain will eventually adjust or I’ll have to reconsider a career in communications. In the interim, I am finding comfort and new meaning in Christ’s invitation to come to him as a child.

When my friend and I were wrapping up our theoretical conversation, I’d probably get out my phone and pull up this video my sister, Colleen –  who has an eye for beautiful things – shared with me. There is a cameo from a woodworker I know and love and I’m not even talking about Steven. 

Que te vaya bien –  May it go well with you.

C.S Lewis, Father John Misty, South Park On Moderation and Fasting

“Everything in moderation.” Usually a concession, permission to indulge. But moderation is not what allows us to eat one Double Down per fortnight, it’s what allows us to not die. We need the sun for it’s light and heat, but too much and we are burnt to a crisp, some of us more quickly than others. Every living thing needs water (I think that’s true, but some mycologist probably knows some mushroom…), but even water is toxic at levels too high.

Conversely, you can have a little bit of cyanide before it’s actually harmful. Or watch one episode of  _________*  before your soul becomes ill.

*Whatever it is for you

Portion control is not a modern concept, it’s how humans have survived to this point, and it’s been largely instinctual.

My instincts are all off, untrustworthy, appetite never sated, thirst never slaked, if I like something I want more of it, more articles, shows, beer, sex, more experiences, chips, mental stimulation, mental relaxation, comfort, adventure, work, play. Scarcity is rarely an issue as my tastes are modest by first world standards. Which are insane standards.

As with the tangible, so with the intangible. That’s why, generally speaking, fried chicken and something like a wonderful conversation with a friend both have the potential for misuse.

The following do a much better job illustrating this than I can. They illuminate the fear, cynicism, and addiction, to name some of the fruits, born from this glut.

 

Perelandra – C.S.L.

From Chapter 4

“He had always disliked the people who encored a favorite air in the opera—“That just spoils it” had been his comment. But this now appeared to him as a principle of far wider
application and deeper moment. This itch to have things over again, if life were a film that could be unrolled twice or even made to work backwards… was it possibly the root of all evil? No: of course the love of money was called that. But money itself—perhaps one valued it chiefly as a defense against chance, a security for being able to have things over again, a means of arresting the unrolling of the film.”

 

Bored in the USA – Father John Misty

How many people rise and say
“My brain’s so awfully glad to be here
For yet another mindless day”?

I’ve got all morning to obsessively accrue
A small nation of meaningful objects
And they’ve got to represent me too

By this afternoon, I’ll live in debt
By tomorrow, be replaced by children

How many people rise and think
“Oh good, the stranger’s body’s still here
Our arrangement hasn’t changed?”

Now I’ve got a lifetime to consider all the ways
I’ve grown more disappointing to you
As my beauty warps and fades
I suspect you feel the same
When I was young, I dreamt of a passionate obligation to a roommate

Is this the part where I get all I ever wanted?
Who said that?
Can I get my money back?

Just a little bored in the USA
Oh, just a little bored in the USA
Save me, white Jesus
Bored in the USA
Oh, they gave me a useless education
And a subprime loan
On a craftsman home
Keep my prescriptions filled
And now I can’t get off
But I can kind of deal
Oh, with being bored in the USA
Oh, just a little bored in the USA
Save me, President Jesus
I’m bored in the USA
How did it happen?
Bored in the USA

 

Satan with answers

(vulgar, but you’ve heard much worse)

 

I think this can change, our disordered* consumption that is.

*A truly appropriate word, literally “in the wrong order”

Not until now did I remember that this is the season of Lent. If we are designed as intra-symbiotically (word?) as it seems (or put another way, we are holy, whether or not we mean to be), then there could be great wisdom in choosing to fast, to keep at arm’s length what is well within our grasp, to feel again the void that we expertly and habitually fill.

I’d like to keep trying to try this.

 

One week in

We’re through our first full week in MZT (as the kids (in the airline industry) say) and we are feeling great about being here. Some highlights include morning ocean swims, incredible Mexican fare, the slow and steady tuning of our ears to the language of the land, successfully executing some practical errands using our bad Spanish, meeting several lovely new folks, and spending time with our hosts Alejandro and Andrea and their adorable Swiss Mexican hija Angela. She loves to drop toys, food, or herself and say “¡Se cayó!” (it fell). Terribly cute.

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If you’re reading this, I thank you, truly. It’s an act of love and friendship to spend your valuable time reading our words. The culture around sharing and communicating online has turned into so much scrolling, reposting, and liking and I’m as guilty as any of allowing my online identity to devolve into much more the sum of what I consume than what I produce. Maybe this is an effect of what feels like a new internet monoculture populated with enough content to fill every wrinkle in our brains, while gradually lobotomizing us all. Even if we only ever took in the good, there’s just too much, and I for one have a threshold for giving a damn that is in constant danger of leveling down. The odd result of all of this is that I’m much more likely now than at anytime since the rise of the blog to actually read my friends’ and acquaintances’ work and explore their creative projects – those serve as bright lights in the dark web for me.

I hope this space is more bright than dark — and life-giving in either instance — but it won’t be much of a travel blog, rather, a place to share whatever might feel worth sharing. It could be a rant as novice critical theorist, an explanation of the methods used in our attempt to grasp the Spanish language, responses to the diverse writings and ideas we are absorbing, or rough drafts of inventions I’m working on (see below).

Chameleon Suit
Note: Mosquitoes and other winged carnivores are obsessed with my blood, one of the banes of my existence in tropical climes.

Maggie is great at this stuff. She’s what some folks might call a “doer.” I’ma try to learn how to do dat voodoo she do and let it flow much more frequently. And speaking of voodoo, I have Alejandro to thank for bringing this phenomenon to my attention.

Hasta la próxima, my friends.

-SKS

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Our work station.